Is "local" the new magic word?
Despite higher prices, organic food boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic, but by 2022 a 6% drop was observed as consumers demonstrated a stronger preference for local produce. What factors explain these changes in consumer behaviour?

For years, organic food has been synonymous with quality, taste, sustainable production, pesticide-free farming, and healthier products. However, this has also meant higher than average prices (from 20% to 300% depending on the product). In the years 2020/2021, when health became a major concern because of the covid-19 pandemic, consumers saw in organic food a promise of safety, even prevention; they favoured this category, resulting in growth of 10.4% in 2020, which dipped slightly in 2021 to 9.9%.
In 2022, the trend was reversed for the first time, with a 6% fall compared with 2021. Inflation alone does not explain this change in behaviour: other expectations have been reinforced or have emerged and tend to show more enthusiasm for local than for organic produce.
The first of these expectations is proximity. For a long time, the statement "it's a brand that's close to me" has been used to assess consumer attachment based on the score they give it, in particular the feeling of sharing the values claimed by the brand. The health crisis, like the war in Ukraine, has changed the meaning and nature of proximity. It has highlighted France's dependence, whether in terms of agricultural resources or sources of energy, which come from afar, reflecting an opaque globalisation that is a source of concern and vulnerability, not to mention the environmental and economic impact of transport. On the other hand, proximity has become a very concrete way of embodying production, giving it a soul and identifying its roots.
Consumers are looking for an experience, an encounter, and a discovery, through a supply chain on a human scale
The second expectation is the need for contact. This is still a priority after almost two years of health restrictions, as can be seen in the number of people visiting bars, cafés, restaurants, theatres, etc. It has an impact on practices and choices.
On the other hand, accompanied by emotional added value, consumers are looking for an experience, an encounter, and a discovery, through a supply chain on a human scale. This trend is borne out in concrete terms: organic food purchases have fallen in supermarkets and specialist shops, while they have risen in direct sales and craft retailers (up by 7.8% and 5.8% respectively). Favouring locavore consumption also means making a commitment to the idea that buying local brands and products from small-scale producers supports and sustains France’s farming base.
The third expectation is quality. Consumers are wary of large-scale production abroad. After price (63%), production in France (34%) and origin (33%) are the two criteria that count most when it comes to buying a food product. In the same vein, 69% say they prefer to buy a product made in France and 61% say they will pay more attention to local origin, ahead of environmental impact (55%) or brand (39%), but obviously behind price (72%) as long as purchasing power is eroded by inflation. Lastly, 85% of French consumers favour local products in their lifestyle (food, shopping, travel, etc.).
The appeal of local is here to stay, because it is at the intersection of representations and values: craftsmanship and people, heritage and terroir, identity, the search for good and healthy food, the interest in shorter and more sustainable supply chains, and the search for the best value for money. For all these reasons, local brands inspire confidence, with the advantage of familiarity and attachment to an origin, to a "spirit of place".
The magic of local is that it transforms geography into culture, thanks to the imagination associated with a particular region, town, typical recipe, exclusive expertise, etc., in a spirit that is at once authentic, ecological, and romantic. It therefore tells a richer story than organic, whose universe is often more austere and less projective. But are local and French synonymous? Yes, if, for example, if a “local” claim positions itself into the context of the football World Cup. But it has other strings to its bow.
International brands can also create a strong bond of proximity by recounting their origins and giving meaning to their "dual nationality"
As demonstrated by the success of TexMex, Thai and Japanese cuisine, Korean drinks, or Made in Germany (photography) or Made in South Korea (electronics) technology products, knowledge of one's geographical or historical roots has value for consumers, even beyond one's immediate geographical origin.
International brands can also create a strong bond of proximity by recounting their origins and giving meaning to their "dual nationality": local or regional roots and resonance with the country of adoption.
This involves passing on to the “adopted” country and culture the benefits of a different origin within the country of establishment (history, typicality of the offer or raw materials, uniqueness...) and creating the conditions for an experience (gustatory, aesthetic, emotional...) intrinsically linked to this dual culture.
This also implies continuous, dynamic and co-creative brand management, to resonate with consumers' expectations and perceptions, and empathy, the key to understanding personal and societal contexts.
Table of content
- An introduction to Flair France 2023: The era of polycrisis?
- The secrets of happiness
- Is "local" the new magic word?
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